Hi everyone, I’m a new gardener in zone 8b. I want to start gardening, but I’m really worried about the heat and strong sun here in the summer.
I have a covered porch, so I’ve been thinking about container gardening so I can move the plants in and out of the sun as I need, but I’m worried I won’t get good yields if they stay in pots.
I’ve also thought about making an area in the yard and putting up some shade, like fiberglass mesh on poles so some sun can still get in.
If anyone in this forum has some advice, I would really appreciate it
I read a gardening book about Texas that said you need to think differently about seasons. In other places, you plant in spring, grow and harvest in summer, then everything sleeps for winter by October.
The cool thing about this area is that you can grow something all year long, as long as you know what to plant. Start your brassicas, leafy greens, and legumes in late winter, and you’ll be harvesting in March or April. In March, plant your tomatoes and peppers that like it hot but not too hot, then harvest in June or July. In May, plant squash, melons, and corn that thrive in the heat, and you can harvest them in September. These months are close, but they may change depending on your plants and the weather for that year.
Then starting in August, you can work backwards and plant your next tomatoes and peppers for a November harvest. In September, plant your next batch of brassicas to harvest in December.
Think of the heat like a bell curve with its highest point in July and August. Try to plant for both the rise and fall around that peak. With this method, you can plant and harvest almost all year. It will take some trial and error, but that’s normal in gardening.
Secondly, try to place your garden where it gets afternoon shade. Half my garden is in shade by 1 or 2 PM, and the other half gets shade by 4 at the height of summer.
Ziv said: @Marley
Yes, I’m also in North Texas! This comment is really helpful. Thank you so much
I’m in 8b in SC. I start peas, lettuce, greens, and turnips in early February. I start my peppers and eggplants indoors in January and tomatoes in February, then plant them outside by the end of March. Most of my crops finish by July, but I start cold weather crops like kale and collards indoors then plant them out at the end of August or early September. If you cover the cold weather crops, you can grow almost all year. July is usually not great for me.
@Marley
I’m in 10a, Los Angeles and I agree! I use planting guides made for warmer climates like SoCal and Mediterranean zones. There’s basically no frost date here, so the seed packet directions don’t help much. I usually plant things in fall that are normally planted in spring. You’ll need to experiment a bit. Some crops like garlic that need some cold to thrive can be put in the fridge for a little while to trick them.
You can also choose varieties that survive better in warm weather. I rely a lot on the San Diego Seed Company because they offer varieties that work well in warm weather and have great resources and planting guides for our area.
Corey said: @Lesley
What do you mean by ‘heat’? My Swiss chard bolted a month ago. The perpetual kind hasn’t bolted, but it prefers temperatures over 100 degrees.
I see you highlighting Perpetual Swiss chard as a good leafy green for hot weather. I ordered seeds and planted them a week or so ago. They’re starting to grow, and I’m hoping they’ll replace the rainbow Swiss chard that bolted like yours.
Corey said: @Lesley
What do you mean by ‘heat’? My Swiss chard bolted a month ago. The perpetual kind hasn’t bolted, but it prefers temperatures over 100 degrees.
I have rainbow and Fordhook seeds that went through the whole summer these past two years and start to wilt when we hit 90 degrees every June. Actually hit 90 already this year, but I don’t have any out.
Only grow crops that enjoy the heat in summer. Cool crops like lettuce, brassicas, and peas are for winter and spring, maybe fall.
Growing in the ground is easier than in containers or raised beds since the soil doesn’t dry out as fast.
Shade can help and may improve yields, but it’s not a must if you water enough.
Don’t worry if your plants wilt in the hottest part of the day. If they bounce back when the sun goes down, you should be good (but if they don’t, that means they need more water).
@Zyan
Does this apply to all of 8b, including those that thrive in really hot, windy, and sunny conditions? I ask because I think I struggle like the person who posted this since most guides refer to cooler 8b areas, not the hotter ones.
By the way, I see that relates to your last piece of advice too. Sorry for being chatty.