Am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated
@Frost
#5 is a great tip! Thanks
No joke! I have two orchids to try this on. One hasn’t bloomed for 3 years, the other hasn’t shown color for 4!
I have a real science project to try this winter!
Paden said:
@Frost
Why a south-facing window? With little orchid experience, I have 2 that have bloomed for over 12 years. Everyone asks how, and I have no idea, but they are south-facing!
In the northern hemisphere, south-facing windows get sunlight in winter but less in summer.
This is important as you go away from the equator (it may not be true once you reach the arctic circle).
Aeron said:
@Frost
What should I do if I don’t have a south-facing window?
Consider using timed grow lights or a filtered window. Just avoid direct sunlight.
@Frost
My routine is similar, but #5 was the tip that helped my blooms the most. All of my orchids rebloomed this year after leaving them on a windowsill with the window slightly cracked for about a week this winter, including a few that hadn’t bloomed in years.
My orchids are about 2-4 feet back from some big unobstructed south-facing windows. I sometimes put them right in the windowsill during winter but pull them back a bit in summer to avoid scorching.
I would suggest looking up guides on orchid care. Ice cubes are not a good way to water them; they prefer soaking in water for a while.
Alix said:
I would suggest looking up guides on orchid care. Ice cubes are not a good way to water them; they prefer soaking in water for a while.
The two ladies in my office have orchids that always bloom. As a gardener, I find it frustrating because they don’t know the difference between glads and tulips.
Alix said:
I would suggest looking up guides on orchid care. Ice cubes are not a good way to water them; they prefer soaking in water for a while.
I disagree. We get full bloom production with this method. It’s easy to overwater these plants.
@Vega
They’re tropical plants. Like zone 10 tropical.
@Poe
Orchids are from rainforests and prefer warm water, high moisture, and floral feeding…
@Poe
Avoid using ice. They’re tropical plants. They would never experience water this cold, and it’s not enough. Look up where they’re native. Does that pot have drainage? If not, make some. Water by bottom soaking.
Poe said:
@Payton
They like light to grow between blooms but need temperature drops and less light to bloom.
Recommended by plant sellers to kill the plant so you will buy more. Ice cube quantity tap or distilled water is better.
Poe said:
@Payton
They like light to grow between blooms but need temperature drops and less light to bloom.
Ice is never recommended for Phalaenopsis care since they are tropical plants and should be watered with warm or lukewarm water, ideally not below 15 degrees Celsius. I’ve worked in a flower shop for 6 years and seen many Phalas that died or lost flowers due to too low temperatures.
Stop using ice cubes and try using two ice cubes worth of warm water!
Thorne said:
Have you had a drop in temperature at night to help stimulate flower spikes?
Not really, I live in northern California, and it’s still very hot. Thanks for the tip.
Thorne said:
Have you had a drop in temperature at night to help stimulate flower spikes?
Not really, I live in northern California, and it’s still very hot. Thanks for the tip.
It won’t flower unless the temperature drops for a few nights in a row.
I get my store-bought Kroger orchid to bloom at least once, sometimes twice a year. Here’s what has worked for me: First, keep your plant in a warm place around 70-75°F, (I put mine in my laundry room under a standard LED grow lamp, long direct sun works too). Humidity is key; make a humidity tent that fits around your plant plus about 12 inches higher. I use a piece of chicken wire rolled into a cylinder, covered with clear plastic and sealed with tape, but any humidity tent will do. Stop watering for 5-7 days, just spray inside the tent to keep the humidity up, and leave the orchid in the tent for those days. Remove it for a day for fresh air and a full soak, using bottled spring water. Let it drain completely. Repeat this process after fresh air day. Fertilize every two weeks until stems and buds form. After 4 weeks, you should see stems sprouting. Once you see stems, you can remove the humidity tent and go to open air. Mist twice a day for the plant and substrate. Here’s the key part: ensure the plant gets at least 8 hours of darkness in 10-15°F cooler air. After several weeks of temperature changes, you should have buds forming and ready to bloom. After blooming, start the process over, and if needed, repot with fresh substrate. This method has worked for me for years; I hope it helps someone.